Skip to main content
Young Hollywood
LifestyleHobbies

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson on El Capitan and Wall Climbing Tips

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson on El Capitan and Wall Climbing Tips

6:52·By Gemma G
Share

About this video

YH catches up with professional rock climber Kevin Jorgeson to hear all about his record-making feat reaching the 3,000-foot summit of Yosemite National Park's El Capitan with his partner Tommy Caldwell! He explains the many perils and challenges he faced performing this feat and what lessons even non-rock-climbers can take away from his experience. Plus, he gives us some handy rock wall-climbing tips!

CHAPTERS

KEY MOMENTS

KEY TOPICS

FULL TRANSCRIPT

Read alongShow ↓
Young Hollywood

He's already completed the world's toughest climb and now Kevin Jorgeson is showing us some moves right here on Young Hollywood.

Young Hollywood

What inspired you to make this historic climb?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

It started with Tommy Caldwell, my partner, his vision to push big wall free climbing forward. He was the first one to look at the Don Wall and think maybe it could be free climbed. And I saw a short film that featured Tommy working on the climb, and I was in need of a new project at the time. So, I called him up out of the blue, and he said yes. I couldn't believe it. We just started working on it together.

Young Hollywood

So, there was no hesitation whatsoever. It was yes, let's do it.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Well, I'm sure he had some hesitation. He likes to tell this story of our first day climbing together. It was a test because I had no big wall experience before this. So, Tommy strapped an 80-pound haul bag to my back and we hiked around the back of El Capitan to the top. Takes 5 hours with 80 pounds on your back. And he was trying to break me. He says he kept looking over his shoulder to see if I had quit yet. And when I got to the top, I threw the haul bag down and I said, "Ah, that felt good." He was like, "All right, I got myself a partner."

Young Hollywood

Not what he expected.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Yeah, and that was the start.

Young Hollywood

What did it take to get into rock climbing shape?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Climbing on El Cap is like learning a new language. Super polished granite. And you don't find this style of climbing anywhere else in the world. Without the time spent on the wall, learning how to grab the holds and do these really technical moves that are just feel like you're gonna fall all the time. You have no chance.

Young Hollywood

And how many years did it take to train for this?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

This was a six-year project for me and Tommy had a couple years invested before I even joined. So it was closer to eight for him.

Young Hollywood

Was Spider-Man an inspiration?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

He would have done a lot better on this, I think than than we did.

Young Hollywood

So what were the biggest challenges along the way?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Weather is one of the biggest challenges because this wall bakes in the sun. It's why it's called the Dawn Wall. Every morning the sun hits the wall and you just roast like an egg on the side of the wall. So we have to wait till the shade comes and then we have to climb at night. A lot of times we didn't finish climbing until 11, 12, 1:00 in the morning. We had to adapt our climbing to being nocturnal.

Young Hollywood

Explain how this all works when it comes to food, when it comes to going to the bathroom.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Sure. I mean, you have to bring everything you need to survive up there. Ideally, it falls into the fabric of the experience, so you just focus on the climbing. For example, you don't wanna worry about if your portal ledge is gonna fall off the cliff in the middle of the night. If your rope's gonna break, you know, if your headlamp is gonna die. So, you have to trust everything that you have up there. You're busy trying to climb the hardest thing, hardest rock on Earth.

Young Hollywood

During the climb was there ever a moment when you thought, "We may not make this"?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

There was a moment when I thought I wasn't gonna make it. And that's because I got stuck for seven days in the same spot. And the way big wall free climbing works is you have to free climb every pitch. You have to climb every pitch without falling in order to keep going up. Well, I couldn't get across the 15th pitch. My fingers were sliced to smithereens, basically. And so I had super glue and tape over two of my fingers.

Young Hollywood

You super glued your fingers shut.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Right. But it it didn't work. So I had to wait for the skin to heal. So it was this constant battle back and forth of climbing days and rest days and letting the skin heal and dealing with super glue and tape. And the climb was on the line. It was at the point where Tommy, he was much further ahead at this point. He was close to getting to the top.

Young Hollywood

Oh, he didn't wait for you?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Well, he did. He finished the hard parts and then waited for me to catch up.

Young Hollywood

Okay.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

And then I finally did get to catch up. But there was a moment there where I didn't know if it was gonna gonna happen.

Young Hollywood

What are you eating along the way?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Breakfast up there was always a bagel sandwich. So, we had bagels and cream cheese and avocado and bell peppers and salami. It was pretty good. And cliff bars for lunch. And then dinners rotated between pasta, Indian food, and burritos. Yeah.

Young Hollywood

And what was the first thing you did once you made it to the top?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Gave my girlfriend a big kiss and Tommy was there with his wife and gave my dad a big hug and all our friends that were up there. And then we went down to the valley floor, had a big steak dinner. But what was funny about that is that we hadn't been eating stuff like like super rich food like that. Right. So, we had this fancy dinner and we were all just like, "Oh," Tommy and I both, our stomachs were just like, "Couldn't enjoy it." Couldn't handle it.

Young Hollywood

What can we all take from this even if we're not climbers?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Anything is possible. It sounds cliché, but like, there's nothing less improbable than this piece of porcelain that Tommy and I toiled over for for six years. Tommy's really optimistic and I'm really analytical. So, we both brought different things to the team that that brought out the best in each other and kind of neutralized each other's weaknesses and that's what made it possible. But really big goals can't be done alone and you have to find that right partner to help finish it off.

Young Hollywood

Well, if that's true, what do you say you show me how to climb a little bit?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Let's do it. So, we're gonna head right up the belly of this beast right up the middle. Wow. And I'm gonna have you concentrate on the white holds or the blue holds. Each path basically is a different level of difficulty. Are you afraid of heights by chance?

Young Hollywood

No.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Okay, that's that's good. Some people are afraid of heights and it's it's funny. I actually recommend climbing at night with a headlamp on because you can't see the ground. How small it is. Yeah. So, what I want you to focus on while you're heading up is that climbing is a whole body activity. And it's easy for dudes to focus on the arm aspect, but I want you to think about moving your feet before moving your hands. What can be common is that you'll step on and then you'll reach as far as you can with your hands and then you get totally extended and you can't even see your feet anymore. So, I want you to always kinda keep your hands and your feet together. Move the feet, then move the hands. Move the feet, then move the hands.

Young Hollywood

First I do the feet.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

So, kinda pick your handhold that you're gonna go to first. Exactly. And then choose the feet that'll help you get there.

Young Hollywood

You've got me, right Kevin?

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Gotcha, dude. All right. Let's try. Good. Good choice. Relax those arms.

Young Hollywood

It's a lot harder than it looks. All right, feet up. Good. I might I might max out soon, Kevin.

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

You got it. Do at least two more moves.

Young Hollywood

Okay. One move. Ah, it's

Rock Climber Kevin Jorgeson

Two moves.

Young Hollywood

I think that's a wrap. Woo! There you go. Ah. Learning from the best on Young Hollywood.

Timestamps are approximate — click one to jump the player.

PEOPLE MENTIONED

  • Kevin Jorgeson

    Professional rock climber, subject of the interview

  • Tommy Caldwell

    Kevin's climbing partner on El Capitan

  • Spider-Man

    Fictional character, humorously compared to climbers

FAQ

Who did Kevin Jorgeson climb El Capitan with?+
Kevin Jorgeson climbed El Capitan with his partner Tommy Caldwell.
How long did it take to train for the El Capitan climb?+
The project was six years for Kevin Jorgeson, and Tommy Caldwell had invested a couple of years before Kevin joined, making it closer to eight years for Tommy.
What was a major challenge during the El Capitan climb?+
Weather was a major challenge because the Dawn Wall bakes in the sun, requiring them to climb at night to avoid the heat.
What food did Kevin Jorgeson eat on El Capitan?+
Breakfast was typically a bagel sandwich, lunch consisted of Cliff bars, and dinners rotated between pasta, Indian food, and burritos.
What is Kevin Jorgeson's key wall climbing tip?+
Kevin advises focusing on moving your feet before your hands, as climbing is a whole-body activity, and keeping hands and feet together.

SHOP THE STORY

HOBBIES · LIFESTYLE PICKS

Related in Hobbies

View all →